St Laurent de Cerdans is a small Pyrenees village surrounded by chestnut trees.  It bears witness to the old traditions of the Catalan forges, timber trade, the Catalan “toiles de soleil” textile industry and is the birthplace of the famous rope-soled sandals, the Espadrilles.

 

Catalan people are big hearted, friendly, spirited and independent, proud of their ancient heritage.  St Laurent has a fascinating history and is rich in Catalan culture and punctuated by festivals and communal meals, all accompanied by music and dancing, in particular La Sardane – the Catalan dance of freedom depicted by Picasso.

 

The unique Fête De L’Ours (The Festival of the Bears) is celebrated here in February over several days to celebrate the start of spring.  Other festivals are held in July and August.

 

South of the Canigou mountains is the Vallespir, the valley of the River Tech and one of the Languedoc-Roussillon region’s most beautiful unspoilt areas of outstanding natural beauty.  This area has one of the most diverse ecosystems in western Europe, sporting many particular species of flora and fauna.

 

As you depart St Laurent and follow the River Tech as it meanders through the Haut Vallespir, you pass by the Gorges De La Fou, which lay claim to being the narrowest gorges in the world.  An iron footbridge winds through a vertical slice of the earth, accessible only on foot. 

 

Just beyond is Arles-sur-Tech, whose 12th century church, the Église de Ste-Marie has pretty cloisters, 12th century frescoes and a legendary sarcophagus beside the church door, which according to fervently believed local legend produces several drops of totally pure water every year.  Then follows the spa town of Amélie-les-Bains-Palalda, where fragments of Roman baths have been discovered.  Most in evidence are the many spa hotels for those who like to spend their holidays focused on their ailments.

 

Just beyond is Céret, surrounded by cherry orchards, a pleasantly relaxed town with enormous plane trees, lovely little squares, painted Spanish tiles and colourful stucco buildings, giving it a very Spanish feel. Also a Museum of Modern Art full of works by Braque, Gris, Matisse, Picasso and others, who all spent time there.  Plus its wonderful Saturday market is not to be missed.

 

This area is home to the fine Roussillon and Muscat wines which enthusiasts can sample direct from the “cave” where they are produced.

 

The coastal area (known as the Côte Vermeille), the craggy coastline of rose-tinted rocks where the mountains meet the Mediterranean, is only an hour away.  Small coves and secluded beaches have resisted full scale development.  The area boasts many and varied resorts, from the wide open beaches of St Cyprien and Canet Plage, to the 7 miles of beach at Argèles Sur Mer and the smaller fishing villages of Coullioure and Port Vendres.  Cerbère is the most southerly point of the French coast, proudly flying the red and yellow Catalan Flag. 

 

The Art Museum at Figueres in Spain is well worth a visit.

 

Although St Laurent has some fine restaurants, the most popular place to eat is in Spain at Tapis.  Tapis is 10 minutes by car and is a thriving restaurant with excellent freshly cooked Spanish food and is very good value for money.

 

A further 15 minutes beyond Tapis in Spain is Maçanet De Cabrenys, a medieval town with an excellent atmospheric bar dominating the town square and many restaurants.

 

Approximately 40 miles away is Perpignan which is the best for supermarket shopping with a massive Auchan supermarket.  On the Spanish border at Le Perthus there is cheap booze and perfume.  Excellent restaurants abound in Perpignan and beyond on the coast there are many excellent fish restaurants.

 

Painted in the Catalan colours of red and yellow, the “train jaune” the yellow train, affectionately known as the “metro of the Pyréneés” runs along a 63km narrow gauge track, through mountains and over bridges and viaducts.  A time-table is available at the local tourist office in St Laurent.

 

Near the coast there is a giant water park (Aqualand).  There are about a dozen ski resorts about two hours away.  Font Romeu and Formiguères are among the best.

 

Further afield there are beautiful abbeys at Serrabonne, St Michel de Cuxa and St Martin du Canigou.  There are also castles at Quéribus and Peyrepetuse.  The historic Cathar Cité of Carcassonne is a “must-do” day trip about 2 hours drive.

 

Andorra is about a 3½ hour drive away for duty-free bliss!